Islas del Maiz

We´re headed off to the Corn Islands, on the Atlantic side. Very different culturally (more English influence via the pirates….arrrrhhh matey) and geographically.  We will be on the little island.

The top photo is a postcard, promo shot from a local hotel (the one we are staying at), so that well in mind, a sneak peak.

Nerd that I am I have brought a copy of Emmanuel Levinas´Totality and Infinity to read on the beach.  For the similarly minded, the Stanford Encylopedia entry on Levinas

I´m not sure what if any internet connection we´´ll have there.  So posting may be light.  If not, expect some Levinasian (??) meditations. 



Published in: on June 7, 2008 at 10:30 am  Leave a Comment  
Tags: , ,

Even More (Flickr) photos

We went to Matagalpa, a city (100,000 pop) but a small town feel. Great place. My favorite place so far in the country, although the flies are a little excessive.  The countryside is stunning.   

I´ve got some pics up from our trip here.  We leave tomorrow for Managua, the following day to the Caribbean side and some small islands (Corn by name) the day after.

The photos can be viewed here

Published in: on June 6, 2008 at 2:44 pm  Leave a Comment  
Tags: ,

Luke Soy Tu Padre

Somehow I forgot to post these. During our stay in Granada we went up to a live volcano (Masaya) and the winds blew in a other than usual direction (i.e. right towards us), those winds blowing poisonous sulfuric gas. Hence the masks.

I thought the next thing is that the Germans might drop mustard gas on our forward trench position.

Published in: on June 5, 2008 at 9:25 am  Leave a Comment  
Tags: , ,

New photos

Up at Flickr.

Check the folder for Leon, with some non-tropical storm pics. Nice shots of the city with the sun out.

Also within the Leon set, multiple shots of our day up in the mountain.

For those wondering, I didn´t realize I only had the option with a basic Flickr account of three sets. I´ve combined Managua-Granada into one. Now Leon, Esteli with Matagalpa and Jinotega to follow I suppose.

Below two shots, not in the photostream.

Published in: on June 3, 2008 at 12:09 pm  Leave a Comment  
Tags: , ,


Being in the highlands (and especially after having come from Leon) the specter of the war haunts this land, although it is rarely discussed. 

For some background, this wiki (which is flagged for a dispute but which I find remarkably balanced) would be a good place to start.

The Sandinistas who are currently in power and whose local Esteli office I passed on the way over to this internet cafe ruled from the revolution (1979) until 1990. 

The article discusses how originally part of a broad movement of anti-Somoza elements, some middle class, business, even church and human organizations NGO type organizations, the Sandinistas began to seriously concentrate power in their hands.  Particularly in inverse proportion to the degree that they were attacked by the Contra forces.  Room for those who were anti-Somoza/anti-Contra but not pro total control of the Sandinistas was squeezed out.  Particularly brutal was the law which allowed by the indefinite detention of suspected (counter)terrorists–sound familiar to anyone?

On the other hand the Sandinistas did inherit a totally destroyed country with no infrastructure all of which had been expropriated by the Somoza dictatorship over decades.  The FSLN started the famous Literacy Campaign across the country as well as increased rights for women, unions, and improved health care.  The 1984 election was considered fair by most organizations (other than those funded by the US essentially). Although with all these issues, fair is a sliding slippery scale.  The Sandinistas no doubt used their government control to influence the election.  So does the Republican and Democratic Parties in the US. And with the amount of voter disenfranchisement in the US (particularly bad in my hometown of Cincinnati) hard to make absolute calls on these issues.

On the 1990 election, in which (current and former President Ortega) lost to Violeta Chamorro in a major upset the following (again this was considered a fair election but fair is interesting when you consider this):

Due to factors such as natural disasters, the fall of Communism in the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe (which stopped aid), state corruption and, inefficient economic policies, the state of the Nicaraguan economy declined.[citation needed] The elections of 1990, which had been mandated by the constitution passed in 1987, saw the Bush administration funnell $49.75m of ‘non-lethal’ aid to the Contras, as well as $9m to the opposition UNO – equivalent to $2b worth of intervention by a foreign power in a US election at the time, and proportionately five times the amount George Bush had spent on his own election campaign.[49][50]. When Violetta Chamorro visited the White House in November 1989, the US pledged to maintain the blockade against Nicaragua unless Violeta Chamorro won. [51].

In August 1989, the month that campaigning began, the Contras redeployed 8,000 troops into Nicaragua, after a funding boost from Washington, becoming in effect the armed wing of the UNO, carrying out a violent campaign of intimidation. No fewer than 50 FSLN candidates were assassinated. The Contras also distributed thousands of UNO leaflets.

EIther way after the 90 election a process of total amnesty was begun.  For all sides.  This has been credited with preventing another further fighting in the last two decades.  The country is now one of the safest in the Americas.  But it has been wondered whether this has come at the cost of essentially suppressing memory of the war. 

I would have no call on any of this as an outsider.  There are interesting pics and video you can see of former Contras and Sandinistas hugging and chummy now a days. The country is quite young and many youth would be too young to essentially remember anything.  Does healing come through forgetting?  I have no idea.  But now the country is on a long haul to anything resembling normalcy in economic terms.  It is a very very very poor country.   The policies of 1990s neoliberalism (as it would be called down here) certainly has opened up the economy and freer press but as with all these policies built as they are on the creation and concerns of an upper elite and technocratic middle, the inevitable swing back to rural sector interests (supposedly) and urban poor has brought Ortega back to power.  To what end, who knows.

For one, Ortega is an incredibly corrupt dude.  Kinda Nicaraguan version of Yassir Arafat who plays the part of the poor man of the people but actually has his hands in milliones.  Ortega is rumored to have transferred to himself property that was seized and then nationalized from Somoza.  Also like Arafat has held onto power within his party far too long and not allowed organic growth of younger generations to gain influence within the Sandinista movement (like Fatah). 

Yesterday on my tour of the finca was the first day a Nica brought up Iran-Contra and the US meddling in this country and its adverse destructive murderous effects.  He did it in a way that was not insulting to me or pinning the events on me (I was you know about 8 at the time) but there it was nonetheless.  Don´t know what it means exactly, but I somehow thought it was telling. 

Published in: on June 3, 2008 at 9:51 am  Leave a Comment  
Tags: , ,

Doc on history of the Revolution

This is a documentary that was made in 1979 the year of the Sandinista Revolution by Australian journalist John Pilger. His wiki here. As the wiki states Pilger has been a long time critic of US foreign policy. This video is decidedly one-sided in its depiction of the events. (pro-Sandinista). I post it because that side is the one not often shown in the West or rather the US.

You also get to see an honest to God liberation theologian in the film.

The Vatican under John Paul II and then Cardinal Ratzinger (now Pope Benedict) stood against the liberation theologians because they were seen as Marxists. JP II was in the midst of the East European, particularly Polish Catholic struggle against Soviet communism. John Paul could not see a difference between what was going on in Latin America and the Soviet Union. Reagan saw things similarly i.e. that Nicaragua would become a Soviet satellite in the Western Hempishere a la Cuba. The movie questions that fundamental assumption. It examines the possibility that this country was on its own trajectory (not without serious problems or potential pitfalls) trying for something different and unjustly robbed of its sovereignty.

It also exposes the paranoia (from our vantage point today) of the Cold War.

A more balanced doc would show also the atrocities committed by the Sandinistas (of which there were many) particularly in response to atrocities perpetrated by the Contras.

Edit:  Not sure if the video is coming up.  If not, the link is here.

Published in: on May 29, 2008 at 11:21 am  Leave a Comment  
Tags: ,

Granada Thread 1

La Merced Church in Granada  (so beautiful, best view of the city from the bell tower)

Published in: on May 26, 2008 at 7:00 pm  Leave a Comment  
Tags: , , ,


Statue of Ruben Dario (Most Famous of Nicaragua’s Many Poets)

Managua’s Old Cathedral destroyed in the Earthquake of 1972.


Sorry for a few days away.  Was having some trouble uploading photos so I’ve gone to taking some from google images like the one above.

We stayed in Managua for a few days.  Not much to report.  The city was wiped out in the tragic earthquake so everything is post 70s and pretty ugly.  Other that is than this statue, the church, and a wicked history museum across the way which houses some great pre-colombiano (prior to the arrival of Europeans) art.

Published in: on May 26, 2008 at 6:55 pm  Comments (1)  
Tags: , ,

Honeymoon: Destination Nicaragua

My wife (first time I’ve written that now) and I leave for our honeymoon tomorrow. I hope to be blogging in some updates periodically. The easiest way to keep up will be to subscribe to the RSS on the upper right side of the homepage.

We fly into Managua tomorrow. A day or two there and then off to the south. Grenada–bastion of the Conservative Party historically–then to Lake Nicaragua. Some time on the coast, then to Leon–home of the Liberals. Perhaps a tour into the mountains (central-north), coffee growing areas as well as places that maintain the scars of the Civil War.

The trip is rounded out with a more relaxing, laying on the beach week at the Corn Islands (off the East Coast of the country).

If anyone has been (hint hint Marco) and has some recommendations, feel free to leave them in the comments. Much appreciated.

La Paz.

Oh, and I’m experimenting with Twitter (username: cdierkes), so you can catch me over there as well.

Published in: on May 21, 2008 at 6:42 pm  Comments (3)